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Editorial and photos – Phu Quoc, between mangroves and magical trees

For most of the people, its main attractions are its beaches and the sea, with visits to jungle waterfalls also being popular. These two elements – saltwater and freshwater – have given birth to a vital ecosystem, a porous border between the sea and the land: mangrove swamps

 

I ventured out on a day trip to discover this wonder of nature which involved a short drive along the coast and a walk up the river estuary, which can be as wide as 50 meters or more at some points. I have also been to a beautiful place where the Cua Can River flows into the sea, in north east of the island and also walked up the nearby River Vau Bau.

Unspectacular at first glance, one must look carefully at the plants in the mangrove swamps to note that they differ in appearance from those growing on land.  The most visible are the mangrove roots in the air, forming something akin to an island on stilts over the water. A rich biotope develops around these roots, which acted a refuge for terrestrial and aquatic animals.

Because of the global warming, mangroves have become vital in the protection of the land and the crops, protecting coastal areas from erosion by dissipating wave energy. They are also efficient carbon sequesters, piling most of their carbon onto the ocean floor, while forests keep most of it in trees and branches.

The balance in such environment is fragile and economic development, certain to be amplified by the new international airport on Phu Quoc, may tip it far one way if the importance and beauty of the area is not recognized.

Phu Quoc National Park established in 2001 and covering 70% of the island preserves  virgin forests and beaches within its boundaries. It set the conditions, for example, that allowed the survival of the Dugong (Dudong) , a marine mammal  with a sympathetic face, that led to navigators confusing them with the sirens in ancient mythology.

Elsewhere we can only observe and lament the damage done by economic and touristic activities or simply lack of knowledge. There is a hotel built on the mouth of the river Cua Can, with an artificial sand beach created on the estuary that changed the natural flow of water in large part.

All hotels like to be on the beautiful sites, but seem almost unaware that this beauty comes precisely from the wild and the untouched landscape nearby. The most devastating example is surely the Lang Co beach, between Danang to Hue which completely lost its charm after succumbing to the needs of tourism.

While driving my motorbike on Phu Quoc’s dusty roads, I often stop to admire some giant trees. Nowhere in Viet Nam, have I seen these silhouettes by the seaside, which is normally the territory of coconut trees.  The reason, I suppose, is that proximity to the jungle and the wind has spread the seeds of these giants onto the beach. To reach such heights, they must have fought for survival many years, against the natural elements, and they most definitely owe this survival to the surrounding vegetation.

They stand now like conquerors on a new land, carved by the wind and burnt by the sun.  It is as if their sprawling branches are the home of legends in and some can surely be compared to trees of wisdom.

As the sun’s zenith curved toward the horizon, I could better see the subtleties of natural light, offering all the colors of all seasons in one day, at least to those who can sense them.  A well known technique to get more sensible is to practice asceticism. I realized that, unintentionally, I had not eaten or drank anything all the day.

While exploring the banks of the rivers and walking in the clear water, I imagined I was a trapper in the lakes region of Canada.  At other times, I felt like driving through an African savannah because of the giant trees and the wild grass growing on the beach.

Had I been in the sun too long or are hallucinations like these perhaps the essence of travel.